~80–90% of global leather
Chrome tanning
Chromium salts. ~1 day. Softer leather, consistent color, holds water well. Modern, well-managed tanneries are not the environmental story of the 1980s.
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Vegetable tanning uses plant-derived tannins (often from oak, chestnut, mimosa, or quebracho bark) and takes weeks. The leather is firmer, holds structure better, and develops a deep patina over years. It is the traditional method for saddlery and structured bags. It tends to be less water-resistant and shows water marks more readily.
Chrome-free and "metal-free" tanning uses synthetic tannins (often glutaraldehyde or proprietary blends) to achieve some of the softness of chrome with none of the chromium. It is becoming more common at certified tanneries.
In a luxury or mid-range bag, the tanning method affects what the bag will feel like in five years more than how it feels today. A vegetable-tanned bag will likely show wear, darkening, and creasing. A chrome-tanned bag will keep its original feel longer but develop less character.